Galena's Living Windows & Luminaria

A small-town Christmas weekend to charm your socks off

Channel your inner Lorelei Gilmore: We’re going to Galena, Illinois, at Christmastime to stay in a late-1800s bed & breakfast, mingle with the 50+ crowd, and hope for snow. For my mom and me, this was our third trip to Galena in four years for their weekend of Living Windows and Luminaria. 

That's when everyone in the hillside town bands together to light up the streets with Christmas lanterns — thousands of them! At the same time, the picture windows on Main Street come to life with sweet holiday scenes. We’ve slowly been fine-tuning our plans to find the perfect Galena itinerary. Here’s where we’re at after year three. 

First, to get there before dusk, make sure to leave Milwaukee by 1pm or even noon. Adjust the timing depending on your starting point, of course. Might sound wimpy, but driving winding country roads during winter after sunset is actually quite nerve-wracking. For our most recent trip, we got a bit of a late start and ended up on pins and needles watching for deer — and we saw four, one of which was standing in the road.

We stayed at the Lamberson Guest House, which I can’t recommend enough. The woman who owns it is warm as can be. She remembered my mom and me from two years ago and greeted us with big hugs. If that’s not your thing, good news: Galena is on Airbnb! So you can have your space if that's what you crave. But know that then you can’t also have warm cinnamon scones and biscuits with sausage gravy and baked apples topped with oats and cinnamon. Sometimes, it's worth the mingling and the letting down of your personal barriers. 

Lamberson also has a wine and cheese happy hour every day at 5pm, so arriving in time for that is a plus. The rooms themselves are impeccable and come complete with an electric fireplace, TV and DVD player (good for watching “White Christmas” before bed), and better soaps and such than you’d find at a hotel. Oh, and brownies wrapped in cellophane, perfect for a midnight snack. 

This year, we made reservations at our favorite restaurant, Fritz & Frites, two nights in a row. Ideally we’d make a Friday night reservation for 6:00 or 6:15. That gives you ample time to eat, then come back and enjoy your lovely room and get a good night’s rest. After all, breakfast is served Saturday morning promptly at 8:30! 

After breakfast on Saturday, shop Main Street from about 10am–1pm. Make sure to hit up The Grateful Gourmet and my new favorite boutique, Galena Apothecary. Once your tummy is rumbling mid-afternoon, check out Victory Café to see about grabbing a seat at the diner bar for a mug of coffee and a cup of soup. After that: nap time. 

On Saturday night of Living Windows and Luminaria weekend, venture out to view the windows at about 6pm. Make a dinner reservation at Fritz and Frites for 8:00, stopping at One Eleven Main for black cherry mojitos beforehand. We’d been told they’re the best drink in town and they actually lived up to the hype. 

That, or adjust your Saturday night timeline to ensure more time to see the luminaria. Some of this depends on weather. If it’s snowing and beautiful, you may want to be out in it for longer! If it’s frigid-cold, stay inside as long as possible. 

Ending with a late dinner at Fritz and Frites ensures you will see the post-9pm carolers come through. This year, they came closer to 9:30, so get the schnitzel, sip some coffee, savor the apple strudel, and relax and wait for some sweet singing to cap off your weekend. 

You too can go to Fiji!

From Milwaukee to Nadi, here's how we did it

If you want to bowl people over with shock and awe, just tell them you’re going to Fiji. That’s the response Andrew and I got from friends, family, and near-strangers. To be fair, I’d never traveled that far before. The flight is a cool 11 hours from LAX. But it’s doable! So stop looking at us like Fiji, though exotic, is some unaccessible Eden. You too can go to Fiji! Here’s how we did it. 

Getting there
Step one: Pounce on credit card deals that can earn you airline miles and hotel points. Last year we were lucky to land a one-year Companion Pass (two flights for the price of one) through a Southwest limited-time offer. Andrew trusts The Points Guy for hot tips on credit card and flight deals. 

Step two: Watch for cheap flights. Andrew and some of his travel-hungry friends subscribe to Scott’s Cheap Flights (the free version). Every so often he’ll send me a cheap flight to ogle. This time, we not only ogled — we purchased. Within ten minutes of him texting me a deal for, roughly, $395 round-trip to Fiji from LAX and me confirming that we had no plans in early November, our tickets were booked. We used Southwest credit card points coupled with our Companion Pass to get to and from LAX for nothing. That means we each got from Milwaukee to Fiji and back for under $400 round-trip. 

Due to timing of flights, we did spend one night in LA — a fun way to work a mini trip into the bigger one. We had about 36 hours there. Our flight was direct from LAX to Nadi, Fiji. From the Nadi airport (stock up on duty-free booze here!), we hopped on a tourist bus through a company called Awesome Adventures. Andrew organized our bus transportation easy-peasy with the help of our first resort, the Octopus Resort on Waya Island. 

The bus took us to Port Denarau (stock up on snacks + drink mixers here!). From there, we took the ferry that runs daily to and from the Yasawa Island chain, making a dozen or so stops total. The journey, depending on your destination, is anywhere from half-hour to four hours. The ferry flyer is as good at any at home, with a bar, bathrooms, and a top deck where they keep the killer views. 

Where we stayed
We stayed four nights at the Octopus Resort — which, more on that experience later, but for now let’s just say it was a delightful stay and we would recommend it to anyone! We found this spot on Hostel World, but it was so much more than a hostel. Tip: Weigh the pros, cons, and price of booking through a site like Hostel World vs. booking through the resort itself. Booking directly may open up perks like “stay four nights, get the fifth free!” or room upgrades. 

Most, if not all, resorts require you to purchase a meal plan or eat in designated resort restaurants. This is partly because procuring your own food on such a remote island is physically impossible, unless you fancy scavenging for fallen mangos. 

If we could do the trip all over again, we would have done more island hopping in the Yasawa Islands. We heard great things about the sister resort to the Octopus: Blue Lagoon. Staying at the Octopus for four nights was wonderfully relaxing, giving us the chance to really feel at home there. That said, you could probably have a similar experience in just three nights, then move on to another location. 

For us, after our fourth night, we hopped back on the ferry to the main island for the second half of our stay. For this leg of the trip, we stayed at the Marriott because loyalty points made it a wallet-friendly choice. Again with the points! The trouble with the Marriott is it felt very man-made and Americanized. Lovely and luxurious, of course, with an infinity pool, spa, and swim-up bar — but sort of sterile. It was certainly nice for what it was, but we’d recommend opting for something more authentic. 

On our last day, the hotel front desk coordinated taxi for us back to the Nadi airport. Really, the getting-around was very simple! 

Language & currency
Most everyone we encountered spoke English very well, so language was barely an issue. In terms of money, we took out cash from an ATM at the airport. Andrew has a checking account and debit card through CapitalOne 360 which has no foreign transaction fees for ATM withdrawals. That’s where he stores travel-specific funds and only uses the card when traveling abroad. 

Taking out $400 Fijian (about $200 US) at the airport when we arrived, we got through our 8 nights with money leftover. Resorts tend to charge everything (drinks, excursions, meals) to the room bill, meaning there’s never any money exchanged during your stay. We only needed cash for cabs and service tips. 

Speaking of tips: We learned it’s best to tip your waiter, waitress, or bartender directly in cash. Apparently some resorts (the Marriott, in this case) keep a staggering percentage of tips for themselves, leaving the staff with next-to-nothing. That’s surprising and, frankly, disappointing. Be better, Marriott! 

That about sums up the logistics of our trip. Now for some drive-by bonus tips! 

Boat shoes
When you arrive at a smaller island in Fiji, there is no traditional port or pier. There is a little boat that meets the larger ferry. The little boat then drops you off in knee-high water to wade up to your resort. Dress accordingly. 

Bring your big purse to the buffet
I don't mess around with buffet food. You pay an arm and a leg for it, so get your dang money's worth! Bring your big purse and snag a croissant for later. Or a whole wheel of cheese and pile of salami. *Pats self on back* 

Plan for the weather & activities
There may be a daily passing shower. It may cool off enough at night where you'll wish you had some kind of fetching shawl to toss about your shoulders. If you do a hike deemed "for those with good physical fitness," that might be code for "bring your hiking shoes" (more on that another time).

Overpacking
Try not to do it. Going to two resorts for four nights each? Pack four outfits and wear each twice. Fancy sandals are not necessary, ladies. The wedges and block heels I packed didn't see the light of day. I quickly learned resort life is super casual, often barefoot. Save the suitcase space and your strength — don't haul around a bunch of stuff you don't need.

BYO booze
As alluded to up top, stock up on booze and mixers before you hit the resort to avoid overpriced cocktails. If there's a happy hour deal, that's the time to snag a piña colada or two. Cheers!

A long weekend in Charleston

The Holy City is here to charm your socks off

Cobblestone streets, trees that flower in high summer, pastel homes dating to pre-Civil War, lush gardens and greenery, seafood and southern staples. Charleston, South Carolina, oozes charm and quaint sophistication that’s at once dreamy and accessible. Of the handful of U.S. cities I’ve checked off my bucket list in the past year or so, Charleston is my top pick for weekenders. Allow me to break it down.

Logistics & lay of the land 
Flying into the Charleston airport, it’s about a 30-minute ride to the heart of the downtown. What I love about Charleston is that once you get to the historic district, you really don’t ever have to leave. The main streets to explore are King, Broad, and East Bay. If you shoot for those, you’ll find plenty to entertain. A good central landmark is Marion Square. We stayed on Cannon Street in a small but perfectly-situated Airbnb. Would stay there again in a heartbeat. 

If you’re up for a healthy hike, you could walk from the top of King Street all the way down to the Battery, where stately antebellum homes meet the water. The only trouble with all that walking comes with 90-something-degree days zapping your energy. Luckily, should you need them, Lyft and Uber are always an option to get from one end of downtown to the other. 

Things to do downtown
Start on King Street. If in doubt, begin at the centrally-located Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit and walk toward Marion Square, which has a Saturday farmers market that’s worth a trip. The aforementioned Broad and East Bay, as well as Queen Street, are good to aim for and chock full of shops, eateries, galleries, and lovely architecture. 

Looking for photo ops? First up, the famous pineapple fountain in Waterfront Park. It's a nifty sight, and the surrounding park and boardwalk are good for a leisurely stroll. That’s the thing about Charleston — the heat gives you permission to slow down. Hurrying simply isn’t an option when it’s this hot. (Or you could just not plan a southern vacation in peak summer like we did!)

Nearby the pineapple fountain is a spot that’s very popular with bachelorette parties: rainbow row on East Bay Street. A fun game is to count how many definitive bachelorette parties you can spy in a day. Are they all wearing bedazzled fanny packs? Matching swim suits (really)? T-shirts with a bad photo crop of the groom’s face? We saw all of the above and then some, eventually losing count. 

At rainbow row, the ladies like to snap group photos in front of the house that best matches their color scheme. I made Andrew play the same game. Myself, I prefer a pop of color. Sweaty and awkward, let’s just say neither of us feels especially cut out to be an Insta star. 

If historic homes are what you’re after, there are lots to see and tour near White Point Garden (worth a stop) and the Battery. This promenade along the shore enjoys full-sun, so stay away in the heat of a blue-sky day. In this part of town, you’ll see many horse-drawn tours of historic homes — as well as yard signs advocating for humane treatment of carriage horses. In short, we opted to walk. 

To get out of the sun, we joined a tour at the Nathaniel Russell House. Our guide was a dear lady with scads of facts and architectural knowledge in brain. We learned about rainy day doors, necessary chairs, and that it was common to only go all-out decorating the rooms that guests would see. Tours of homes come with a price tag in the range of $12–20, but we learned that you can visit the grounds for free. The Calhoun mansion is a good spot to wander through manicured gardens dotted with fountains and sculptures. 

For next time: I’d like to do the Gateway Walk. It's an informal trail through the heart of Charleston, snaking through urban gardens, churchyards, and cemeteries in all their gothic glory. However, we learned that many churches shut their gates by late afternoon and some may be closed indefinitely for construction. If you’re interested in exploring this hidden gem, go earlier in the day and keep your fingers crossed that all construction has ceased. 

Get out of town
Although historic downtown Charleston is supremely walkable, there are some neat things to see just outside of town, too. You could take a Lyft or Uber to these spots, but each is about 30 minutes one way. In the end, Andrew and I did the math and decided it would be more cost effective and pleasant to just rent a car for a couple of days. Finding a rental was crazy convenient. We booked a car Friday night, then walked to pick it up at noon the following day. 

First up, the car took us to Shem Creek Park in the town of Mount Pleasant. We walked along the boardwalk among tall wetland grasses, rubbed elbows with local fishermen, admired the boats, and snapped a pic of one very brave bird. We spied kayaks passing by as well, so if it’s water sports you’re after, give Shem Creek Park a whirl. 

During our second full day in Charleston, we packed in two half-day trips. First was a trip to the beach. It was between Sullivan Island and Folly, which we heard was a touristy, party beach. A couple of locals recommended Sullivan and we were glad they did — the breeze felt incredible on that near-100-degree day. 

In the afternoon, we set out for Cypress Gardens. The gardens were made famous in The Notebook, but that’s not why we went. I mostly just wanted to get my fill of southern swampland in its all majesty (no really!). Turns out, Cypress Gardens is one part naturally incredible, one part still rebuilding from a devastating hurricane. It also didn’t help that we were there in the most oppressive heat of the day, not a breeze to be had. Although beautiful, our next priority was to sit awhile in the sweet, sweet AC at our Airbnb. Sigh.  

Note: There are other Cypress-esque spots you can visit, all about the same drive-time from downtown Charleston. Check out Magnolia Plantation and Middleton Place to see if one of those speaks to you! 

Eating & drinking 
What good is a vacation if it’s not delicious? For breakfast, we walked up King Street to The Daily twice because we liked it so much. It’s a coffeehouse serving Stumptown brews plus a menu of toasts, salads, and fresh bakery. We went for the whipped feta, smoked salmon, and avocado toast, and also went gaga over a sample of The Daily’s croissant loaf — croissant dough baked in a loaf pan. Imagine the possibilities! The coffee drinks were yummy, too.

Our other breakfast stop was Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit. Worth the hype? Absolutely. Get there early to avoid waiting in too-long of a line. If said line is 10-or-so people deep outside the door, don’t fret — it moves quickly. If it’s longer than that, *shrug*. The egg, sausage, and pimento cheese breakfast biscuit is where it’s at. 

We also bopped into Queen Street Grocery one day, an old-fashioned corner shop recommended to us for a quick breakfast. At the time, however, we were simply in need of water after being in the sun for hours on end. But we spied a menu of scrumptious sweet and savory crepes. Noted for next time. 

Our one official lunch stop was at a French café on Broad Street called Gaulart & Maliclet. ”Fast and French” is their tagline. Don’t let the outdated website fool you — this place charmed my socks off. The interior is unassuming and seating is largely at the bar. Lunch specials are served with your choice of house wine. We shared an open-faced baguette sandwich topped with goat cheese and green olive tapenade, as well as a plate of cheese and charcuterie. The soundtrack? The likes of Louis Armstrong. Swoony vibes all around. 

Ready for dinner? On our first night, we filled our bellies at Xiao Bao Biscuit, a trendy spot set in a converted gas station. It was pretty neat and plenty delicious. Our favorite thing (hands down, highly debated going back to get it again) was the Okonomiyaki, a savory cabbage pancake. Top it with egg and pork candy. Drool. 

In search of fresh seafood, we stopped at both 167 Raw on East Bay and The Darling Oyster Bar on King Street. Both are charming and notoriously packed. We did 167 Raw for dinner on Saturday and ended up with an over-two-hour wait. We bopped down the street for a mojito in the meantime. When we finally got inside, we saw why the wait was so long: the dining area is no bigger than your average living room. The Darling, on the other hand, is bigger and more beautiful than rustic. We stopped in for their happy hour deal — a nice way to check another yummy spot off the list. 

One of my favorite dinners was at a spot called Leon’s Poultry and Oyster Shop. It’s located on King Street, but a bit of a walk away from the heart of it all. The interior is rustic and cozy, and as I had been craving fried chicken, it really hit the spot. To me, it doesn’t get much better than a really good fried chicken sandwich, sufficiently sauced and topped with pickles and slaw. Washing it down with a Pimm’s Cup? Yes please!  

For dessert, wait in line at Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams. And then when your flight home ends up being super delayed, take it as a sign from above that you’re meant to go back for more. See, when you find your perfect ice cream (browned butter almond brittle in a house-made waffle cone), you don’t ask questions. You indulge. Twice in 24 hours.

Specifically for drinks, we stopped at Revelry Brewing, a container-style bar with a killer rooftop and a crowd of the bachelor and bachelorette party variety. It’s a bit out of downtown, so take a car to get there. On Saturday night around 5pm, there was a bumpin’ DJ and wall-to-wall people. We snagged a seat at the bar and really did revel in the shift in energy. The other watering hole we enjoyed was Prohibition on King Street. Any bar with fancy egg white drinks on the menu is all right in my book. The vibe at Prohibition is wonderfully vintage, buoyed that night by live music and swing dancers. 

Next time: I’d add The Ordinary (a gorgeous seafood restaurant set in a 1920s bank), Babas on Cannon (an old-world café and bar), and Husk (southern signatures in a restored Victorian home) to my list of places to hit. And I’m sure that list could just keep growing. 

As you might have gleaned, Charleston stole a bit of my heart. Although it will be hard to justify going back to the Holy City any time soon, I sure do hope we meet again someday. 

Swamps, snakes & swing

What happens when you have to go to Alabama for work 

Alabama can be a problem child, but my reasons for visiting the Heart of Dixie are none too problematic — unless you take issue with furniture or alligators. The agency I work for is currently rebranding an Alabama-based furniture manufacturer. In the months we’ve been working together, our Milwaukee team has visited that furniture company’s home just outside of Mobile three times — twice to work, once to celebrate.

 

During this third trip to launch the rebrand, my coworkers and I were treated to something a little bit crazy-cool. First up was a tour of Alligator Alley, a swamp sanctuary for toothy titans and other wildlife. We saw gators lumber out of the water, then collapse with a plop on the shore, ready to feed. 

We later held a baby alligator named Chewy — a recipe for a gaggle of giddy Wisconsinites. Honest question: Are gators just the squirrels of the south? Were we wrong to have been so enamored? No matter. We also let a Red-Tailed Boa slither across our shoulders à la Britney Spears. It was an experience. 

During a boardwalk stroll through the swampland, we lost our minds over the electric shock of green around us. Turns out, swamps are otherworldly in their beauty, like an 80s fantasy flick come to life. All that’s missing are Jim Henson puppets and David Bowie. 

For work-trip sustenance, we dined on dry-aged ribeyes, oysters on the half-shell, and flutes of bubbly at Jesse’s, a jewel of southern dining. But our three-peat favorite is Bluegill, a rustic waterfront spot full of fresh seafood, live music, and sunset views of Mobile Bay. Most recently, the music made the experience. 

The Mobile Big Band Society brought upwards of 16 brass players and vocalists crooning American standbys like “Beyond the Sea,” “In the Mood,” and “Moon River.” Swoon. Better still, jump-n-jivers from a local swing club commandeered the dance floor. It was a scene from another era. One fella even asked me to dance. I obliged, but drew the line at swing-flips. 

The club leader attempted to recruit my coworker Jumana and me for her troupe of dapper ladies and gents. We had to break it to her that we were out-of-towners, flying out at 7am the next day. On the wish list for our next Alabama trip, should there be one: airboat rides and white sand beaches. 

A long weekend in Austin

Streets to explore and things to see & eat 

Approachable and artsy. Southern meets Tex-Mex. Hidden gems galore. Austin is, to me, every bit as cool as people say it is, especially when it comes to eating, drinking, and boutiquey retail therapy. It's way easy to spend a long weekend there, even when the weather is less than ideal. I speak from experience. 

The city's hot spots are broken up into streets and neighborhoods that make it simple for tourists to find the kind of vibe they crave. Whether quirky-cute or down 'n' dirty, Austin's got it. Here's a walk through our long weekend. 

Rainey Street
Rainey Street is where the (relatively) laid-back go to bar hop. It’s a street of renovated bungalows that have been turned into bars, with restaurants and food trucks and trailers sprinkled throughout. The vibe is warm and welcoming, even on a chilly weekend in March. 

From a circus theme to dives to classier establishments, each bar on Rainey boasts its own personality and patio. We started at Alibi for champagne cocktails, then bopped over to Lustre Pearl — a fast favorite of mine for its neon “Ici tout est bon.” Next came the kitschy Un Bar Lievable with its blue and red circusy interior and a patio out back complete with an adult-sized slide, hula hoops, and a claw machine full of sex toys (yup). Also Castaway playing on the TVs. How congruous! But it really was fun.






By then we were a little peckish. Luckily our next stop, brewery Craft Pride, has the highly-recommended Via 313 Pizza out back in a food truck. Via 313 is Detroit-style pizza. Wisconsinites, think Rocky Rococo, pan-style and scrumptious. Our group of four shared one pizza — the perfect amount, as our goal was to graze all day. We kept the graze going at G’Raj Mahal with some curry and naan. Yum.

Our night out on Rainey ended with a stop at Lucille, a spot with a more sleek and modern vibe than the other places we’d imbibed. We sat on the sprawling patio beneath heat lamps (the atmosphere really was nice), sipping cocktails that were too strong for my taste. So if you like that kind of thing, get thee to Lucille!






We also returned to Rainey one morning to hit up Banger’s Sausage House and Beer Garden for their weekend Man-mosas. It’s basically a mimosa served in a stein the size of your head. Our group shared one between three of us, and that was sufficient. The vibe at Banger’s hit that Goldilocks zone: not too rowdy, not too quiet, but just right. 

South Congress
When asked my favorite thing we did in Austin, my first thought was “the carrot cake French toast at South Congress Café.” Maybe I was just hungry at the time of questioning, but that French toast really did leave us all gobsmacked. Imagine a spiced, cake-y loaf, thickly sliced and griddled French toast-style, serve with a side pecan cream cheese frosting. Heaven. The eggs Benedict was also scrumptious.






There are lots of other yummy-looking spots to eat on South Congress (SoCo), plus oodles of shops to get lost in and murals to ogle. I could easily spend all day browsing unique giftables and vintage goods. Drool. Note: You can walk from downtown to SoCo, but I wouldn’t recommend it, unless you find gas stations and strip malls scenic. We found the South Congress Café to be a good place to start your journey; walk up and down from there and see what lures you in.

Dirty 6th
Rowdy and raucous to say the least, this stretch of 6th Street is infamous. Here you'll find bawdy entertainment and street performers (a loose term) doing things like fitting their entire selves into a suitcase. Watch out for carry-ons with protruding arms! We likened it to a war zone: bodies slung about and mounted police patrols.






We ventured to Dirty 6th with a destination in mind: Midnight Cowboy, a genuine speakeasy in which to escape the madness. In the midst of all the debauchery on Dirty 6th, there’s a nondescript door and a code to get inside. Once there, the long, alley-shaped bar offers a different vibe entirely from the cesspool just outside. The cocktails are impressive and feature the likes of frothed egg whites, dried blood orange to garnish, and flames. Note: You can pretty much only get into Midnight Cowboy with a reservation, and only with small groups. A party of four is ideal. 

East 6th 
First off, East 6th is nothing like Dirty 6th. Here you can find the scrumptious VooDoo Doughnuts (so doughy and delicious!) in the morning and a slew of buzzy bars and patios at night.

Our first stop of the evening was at Shangri-La. This place had a super cool vibe with a photo booth, phone charging station inside an old telephone box, and an enormous patio out back with merry strings of lights hanging from the trees. We then sauntered down East 6th to Latchkey, where we snagged some seriously scrumptious tacos and queso from the food truck out back, the Smokin' Rose Taco Joint. We probably could have spent more time on this stretch of street, but there are only so many hours and so many drinks one can stomach.

The barbecue 
Not everything worthwhile can be pigeonholed to a given neighborhood. One night, we ventured a bit off the beaten path to Terry Black’s Barbecue, where we waited in line for a good half-hour or more for plates of brisket, ribs, mac ‘n’ cheese, creamed corn, banana pudding, cornbread, and so on. Scrumptious and worth the wait. We also stopped at Stubb's Bar-B-Q for lunch; the pulled pork was super tasty and the mac ‘n’ cheese was served with shell-shaped noodles and a sauce so oozy, some dripped in my hair. It was so worth the extra shampoo. 

All the rest
When we weren’t eating, drinking, or shopping our way through Austin, we did a short jaunt to the lookout at Mount Bonnell, followed by a trip to Lake Travis. The problem: It was incredibly foggy, so the views were nearly non-existent. But if you’re lucky find yourself in Austin on a beautiful day, a trip to these two scenic spots would be worth your while. Lake Travis has a sort of resort feel with a brewery for kicking back with a beer and enjoying the scenery.






We also caught some live music at The Craftsman (yes, more drinking — that gin fizz was so dang delish!). It was the Saturday before Fat Tuesday, so the place was decked out for Mardi Gras with carnival masks and beads scattered willy-nilly. The band was the Boss Band, playing traditional New Orleans jazz plus covers of pop songs. Sometimes silly, but there was an awful lot of energy and brass prowess in this ragtag group. 

In the end, Austin really won me over — a tough thing to do in mediocre, misty weather. Of the handful of comparable stateside cities I've been lucky enough to explore this past year (specifically Nashville and New Orleans), Austin is the one I'd be most eager to return to. First stop: French toast. 

A weekend in New Orleans

Beignets, booze & all that hoodoo 

New Orleans had been at the top of my U.S. bucket list for years. I recently knocked it from my list of daydreams to my pile of been-theres. How did it go? I'll break it down so it's easy to digest.

Things to eat 
On the afternoon I flew into town, we made our way to Central Grocery on Decatur Street, a spot famous for its muffuletta sandwich. Shocking though it may be, I'd never had one before and was all about trying the famous stack of marinated olive salad, layers of mortadella, salami, Swiss cheese, ham, and provolone.

Because open containers are allowed in NOLA, we popped open a bottle of rosé and kicked back in Jackson Square, muffuletta in tow. Note: A half-sandwich is enough to feed two people. Oh, and if you see Voodoo chips, you're gonna want those. Such a tasty little picnic!

On Day Two, we indulged in an insanely scrumptious brunch at Willa Jean, a bustling restaurant and bakery with that oft-sought-after fresh, Instagram-worthy vibe. The food is as delicious as its interior is warm and inviting. Whatever you do, for the love of all that's holy, start with the monkey bread. These pillows of caramelized goodness are melt-in-your-mouth divine. For my main, I went for a sausage, egg & pimento cheese biscuit — a choice I'd eagerly repeat.

Of course we saved room for the famous Café du Monde — in the rain, no less. Some hot tips for any NOLA newbies: The line looks long, but moves quickly. Yes it's worth standing in the rain for. The café only serves coffee and beignets, and a café au lait is the signature sipper. One order of beignets gives you three hefty morsels, which is sufficient for two people in search of a snack. The experience overall is loud and crowded, but s oworth it. Plus, they're open 24/7!

Not pictured is my trip to District Donuts, Sliders & Brew on Magazine Street. Once again I found myself in need of a snack, so I ordered a chicken slider and a donut, just to see how the sweets stacked up to other pastries. The donut wasn't, I thought, particularly special. The chicken slider, however, made me wish I'd ordered a full sandwich. Would go back, would order a full lunch. 

Places to drink
Thirsty? We didn't do too much bopping around from bar to bar during our stint in New Orleans. Rather, we found a couple spots that really worked for us and went multiple times! The first was Hotel Monteleone's Carousel Bar & Lounge — an actual carousel with painted chairs instead of painted animals, slowly rotating around a circular bar. Fun fact: To get in and out of the bar, the barkeeps have to hop over! Here's where I found my new favorite drink, a Pimm's Cup. 

The other bar we frequented was 21st Amendment. It's a cozy joint with yummy cocktails and live music nightly. I'd advise scoping out the music calendar on their website before you go. We came in at the tail end of a couple bands whose style was more up our alley; next time I'd make sure to plan our timing accordingly. Also a note for next time: Make it to Bacchanal, an outdoor wine bar. 

Stuff to do
A lot of New Orleans can just be walking around, sitting with a drink in a sunshine, bumping into a NOLA wedding parade, admiring the scenery and architecture, and people watching.

But if it's raining cats and dogs, you could check out the Voodoo Museum. It won't take you very long, and it will feel more like a couple small rooms and a hallway jam-packed full of the bizarre — but that's what's fun about it. There's no better place than NOLA to learn the difference between Voodoo and Hoodoo, not to mention send up a secret prayer to Marie Laveau. 

However, if I'm ever in New Orleans on another rainy day, I wouldn't rush back to the Voodoo Museum; I'd rather see what's cookin' at the New Orleans Museum of Art. Also worth your time: A ride on the St. Charles Streetcar! Even if you miss your stop and end up riding to the end of the line (wonder who could have done that?), you'll pass sprawling boulevards lined with southern-style mansions galore. The St. Charles is basically an architectural tour.

When you're ready to hop off the streetcar, it's just a few short blocks to Magazine Street. This is a good spot for boutiques, vintage clothing shops, and eateries. The street is long, and apparently split in half by a residential stretch. I stayed on the more vintage-heavy end, starting at Century Girl Vintage then working my way toward District Donuts and beyond. Those inclined to browsing could easily spend a day strolling Magazine Street.

Logistics
We stayed in the Warehouse District, which had a good selection of places to eat and drink without the sloppy insanity of the French Quarter. The good news is that the French Quarter is still within walking distance, so you get the best of both worlds. 

I will say that I was warned by multiple people, from good friends to my Uber driver, to be careful where I ventured out alone. The French Quarter is more gritty and sketchy than I anticipated. Be aware of people trying to scam you out of money by offering you shots, putting parrots on your head, or asking you where you got your shoes. Choosing Magazine Street as a solo outing was absolutely the right way to go. 

One last note on streetcars: We found their times to be a bit sporadic. This could be due to user error and confusion, our soggy weather, or both, but just something to be aware of. Though charming, I wouldn't count on the streetcar if you're on a time crunch. 

Do you have favorite spots to check in New Orleans? The more tips, the merrier! You never know when The Big Easy will call us back.

I ❤️ Eating in NY

Taking the proverbial bite out of the Big Apple

My favorite things about having best friends who live in NYC are: 

a.) they already have public transportation figured out 
b.) they know where to eat in a city that's overwhelmingly delish 

Like, where do people who don't have besties in New York even start? I feel panicked just thinking about it. 

So here I am, logging two scrumptious spots these friends of mine brought into my world during my last trip to New York. Why log a measly two? Because I don't want to forget how tasty these meals were, and passing along even a couple recos to the wide world is better than not passing on any recos at all. So here goes.

Shuka 
Can I get more picturesque Mediterranean brunch in my life? Shuka made my eyeballs and tastebuds so happy. "One of the most warm and inviting rooms in the city" and "fresh and local food" — that's what the Shuka website promises. And does it deliver? 




Well, I felt plenty warm and invited, so yes, I'd say so. This place has ambiance for days! Even the bathroom is stylish as all get out, so you know this is a quality establishment. The website also claims a "friendly staff," which is notably true per our experience. 




The eating was scrumptious. We ordered a chicken kebab, the shakshuka, a killer kale salad, cucumbers, and assorted dips on the side. Can we eat this every day? 

Xi'an Famous Foods
On days when we're not eating Shuka, can we eat Xi'an Famous Foods? Oh my gosh, noodles and dumplings and sauces and so what if it's a chain? It's a New York chain, so. Put that in your pipe and smoke it. 

The location we went to had space for about four or five hungry folks to sit elbow-to-elbow at a small ledge facing the window or a wall, so no points for ambiance. Though I guess you could count cramped as a sort of authentic New York City ambiance in itself. 




Still, all the points go to this meal I can't stop craving. We had pork "Zha Jiang" hand-ripped noodles, spinach and lamb dumplings, and spicy noodles in soup — all amazing, all things I will be dreaming of until I get them back in my belly again.

New York, thanks for being so tasty. New York friends who always show me a good and delicious time, thank you for knowing where to go. Now what's for dessert? 

Bayfield 2018

Old things, new things, Lake Superior things

Another year, another family trip to about as up north as you can go in Wisconsin. This time, Bayfield was filled with some newness — like a new wine tasting experience, a new at-home cocktail, a new coffee shop, and new opinions on the pancakes at The Fat Radish (said opinions would be mine). 

As is the Lawler family way, the weekend started with a stop at Erickson's Orchard. This is where, if they only have nine bags of apple chips, you simply buy all nine bags to stock up. It's survival of the fittest, and in Bayfield, the fittest live off apple chips. This stop takes all of ten minutes. 




Next up, it's Hauser's Superior View Farm, former home of the Bayfield Winery. Here you can sample apples and hard cider and climb the two flights of stairs to the Scenic Overlook and Jim's collection of hats, beer cans, toy tractors, and more. I'd describe for you just how many hats, but you'd probably still accuse me of underselling their sheer number upon viewing them yourself.  

Now the Bayfield Winery, which used to be housed at Hauser's, is located around a bend on a beautiful stretch of orchard land. Step inside, and it's a different experience from others in the small Lake Superior town. Wine flights are served in a waterfall of glassware, and there are bites and nibbles to share. On a nice day, there's even a small patio overlooking the orchard. 

When tummies start rumbling, it's The Fat Radish for dinner. Be sure to make a reservation! Some menu notes from our experience: Don't get the pork skewer. It sounds good, but disappoints. Do get the white fish dinner, the fish tacos, and the Fish Booyah, which is the Radish take on bouillabaisse. 

If going there for breakfast, everyone in our party loved the corned beef hash. But note to self: The pancakes aren't for me (too dense, and not even served with butter), and the Korean barbecue bowl was lacking. Next time, I'm going back to the breakfast sammy. 

Other Rittenhouse Avenue staples include a stop at the Candy Shoppe to order an apple pie, which will invariably be ready for pick-up after 3pm. Then there's Joanne's Scandinavian, my favorite little shop. I've been known to walk away with expensive socks, a red tea kettle, or a gift for expecting friends. Sweet Sailing is where you go to get fudge, fancy mustards, and two-for-one pounds of saltwater taffy.   

Also new this year: Kickapoo Coffee! This really is like having a taste of the city — not surprising, as there is a Kickapoo in Milwaukee, too. It's nice to have a spot where you could hunker down and use the wifi, buy a cool Kickapoo t-shirt or mug, or just come out of the chill for a few over a salted caramel latte. 




When at home — er, our rented condo with a view — we like to get pizza to-go from the Manypenny Bistro. Just think twice next time before asking me to carry it home solo, because I will most likely walk the two-blocks back to the condo with the box tilted just enough to ruin half the pizza. But hey, it still tasted good! This year, we washed it down with a scrumptious peppery ginger cider. 

As for getting outside and stretching our legs, we made time for the Brownstone Trail, affectionately called The Path in our family. But the weather this time did not inspire other long walks. Next time, we must make room for cemetery bingo and a trip to the Iron Bridge trail. So little time, so much nothing-urgent to do!