A small-town Christmas weekend to charm your socks off
Channel your inner Lorelei Gilmore: We’re going to Galena, Illinois, at Christmastime to stay in a late-1800s bed & breakfast, mingle with the 50+ crowd, and hope for snow. For my mom and me, this was our third trip to Galena in four years for their weekend of Living Windows and Luminaria.
That's when everyone in the hillside town bands together to light up the streets with Christmas lanterns — thousands of them! At the same time, the picture windows on Main Street come to life with sweet holiday scenes. We’ve slowly been fine-tuning our plans to find the perfect Galena itinerary. Here’s where we’re at after year three.
First, to get there before dusk, make sure to leave Milwaukee by 1pm or even noon. Adjust the timing depending on your starting point, of course. Might sound wimpy, but driving winding country roads during winter after sunset is actually quite nerve-wracking. For our most recent trip, we got a bit of a late start and ended up on pins and needles watching for deer — and we saw four, one of which was standing in the road.
We stayed at the Lamberson Guest House, which I can’t recommend enough. The woman who owns it is warm as can be. She remembered my mom and me from two years ago and greeted us with big hugs. If that’s not your thing, good news: Galena is on Airbnb! So you can have your space if that's what you crave. But know that then you can’t also have warm cinnamon scones and biscuits with sausage gravy and baked apples topped with oats and cinnamon. Sometimes, it's worth the mingling and the letting down of your personal barriers.
Lamberson also has a wine and cheese happy hour every day at 5pm, so arriving in time for that is a plus. The rooms themselves are impeccable and come complete with an electric fireplace, TV and DVD player (good for watching “White Christmas” before bed), and better soaps and such than you’d find at a hotel. Oh, and brownies wrapped in cellophane, perfect for a midnight snack.
This year, we made reservations at our favorite restaurant, Fritz & Frites, two nights in a row. Ideally we’d make a Friday night reservation for 6:00 or 6:15. That gives you ample time to eat, then come back and enjoy your lovely room and get a good night’s rest. After all, breakfast is served Saturday morning promptly at 8:30!
After breakfast on Saturday, shop Main Street from about 10am–1pm. Make sure to hit up The Grateful Gourmet and my new favorite boutique, Galena Apothecary. Once your tummy is rumbling mid-afternoon, check out Victory Café to see about grabbing a seat at the diner bar for a mug of coffee and a cup of soup. After that: nap time.
On Saturday night of Living Windows and Luminaria weekend, venture out to view the windows at about 6pm. Make a dinner reservation at Fritz and Frites for 8:00, stopping at One Eleven Main for black cherry mojitos beforehand. We’d been told they’re the best drink in town and they actually lived up to the hype.
That, or adjust your Saturday night timeline to ensure more time to see the luminaria. Some of this depends on weather. If it’s snowing and beautiful, you may want to be out in it for longer! If it’s frigid-cold, stay inside as long as possible.
Ending with a late dinner at Fritz and Frites ensures you will see the post-9pm carolers come through. This year, they came closer to 9:30, so get the schnitzel, sip some coffee, savor the apple strudel, and relax and wait for some sweet singing to cap off your weekend.
Fears faced, progress made & boy, do I love the ground!
If a child can do it, you can do it.
If a child can do it, you can do it.
Welcome to my not-so-inner monologue during my first trip to Adventure Rock. For those of you just tuning in, new sports activities are not exactly — how do you say — my jam. Mini bowling made me sweat. I had to pretend I was Pocahontas during my first solo kayaking experience. Similarly, one of my best friends advised I play Mulan while scaling my first rock-climbing wall. Ahh, the things we do for love.
After watching scads of eager kids and self-assured grown-ups methodically scurry up sky-scraping walls, it was tempting to wuss out and remain a spectator. Spoiler: I didn't. "It's just like climbing a ladder," he said.
So I climbed that first ladder. "If a child can do it, you can do it," came my spontaneous mantra. I freaked out at the top and freaked out coming down, then planted my feet and full-body embraced the wall. "I've never loved solid ground more."
"Do you have a fear of heights?" they asked. Who knows! When was the last time I voluntarily dangled from the ceiling? But I was willing to try again, and wall number two ended up being slightly less scary. That was the Mulan climb: Get down to business, defeat the Huns.
Wall number three was the hardest one. Pretending wasn't an option. I got to a point where the angle tilted in such a way that I indignantly questioned the wall, "Why are you like this??" before giving up and landing plop on the ground. Maybe next time I'll conquer the top of that climb and find some other choice words for said wall. Maybe.
My fourth and final wall was conducive to humming Rey's theme from Star Wars: The Force Awakens, as I imagined myself a scavenger on Jakku. I made it to the top, descended most ungracefully (though at least I kept my eyes open this time), and was perhaps not-so-secretly thrilled to call it a day.
"Are you going to blog about it?" friends asked. My gut reaction: Yeah right! Anyone with a love of climbing or penchant for hand-eye coordination would find my coping mechanisms ridiculous, and anyone on the fence about climbing would be wise not to take notes from me.
But I got to my car, screamed (because car screams are a beautiful thing), and realized that I do have some takeaways for anyone fearing The Climb. Pretending helped, as did the not-looking-down. Turns out, clichés like "fake it 'til you make it" and "don't look back" apply to both physical and metaphorical climbs.
Even more helpful and shout-out-deserving were the warm, encouraging friends and strangers who nudged my inner monologue to something a little more positive. The people at Adventure Rock and the people who climb there are upbeat, optimistic types; welcoming, patient, and accepting of those who are still working through whatever fears they're toting. And wow are they ever (go with it) rock-stars.
At the end of the day, am I going to become one of those muscle-backed climbing fiends? Uh, no. But this experience reminded me that, as we enter a new year, progress is progress. Anyone can challenge their "that's not for me" narrative by at least trying. If it takes Mulan, mantras, and friendly motivation to make that progress and find out what is and isn't for you, that's fine. Do it your way.
**Steps off soap box**
Now, if you need me, I'll be over here nursing sore muscles and kicking myself for just realizing that "Climb Every Mountain" would have been a perfect addition to my inner soundtrack. I guess there's always next time.
That one time two beautiful book lovers got married in a freakin' NYC book store
Say hi to my super-terrific, MFEO friends, Rebecca and Ian!
They're married now (#TotesTheSloats). And their wedding weekend was cooler than your wedding weekend. Friday night, us girls hit up Marie's Crisis for some good old-fashioned Broadway sing-alongs. A delight, but next time: less Miss Saigon, more Hairspray, please.
Saturday's rehearsal dinner was held at Ample Hills Creamery, where the bride and groom had Shake Shack burgers and fries catered in before treating us to four kinds of ice cream. Ooey Gooey Butter Cake for the win — also drawing on brown craft paper table runners.
Rehearsal night ended with karaoke at Gagopa Karaoke; a natural Wedding Eve progression. If you don't know, karaoke bars with private rooms are a popular thing in Asia, so of course you can find such delights in the cultural mecca that is NYC. We had two private rooms, thus singing only for those nearest and dearest. It's truly the best experience, and I wish Milwaukee would get on board. Don't forget the champagne, hype lights, and tambourines! They're a must.
Enter: Wedding day. For those of you keeping score at home, yes, this was a Sunday wedding. So on Sunday, the bridal party primped and prettied in none other than the penthouse of the NoMo SoHo Hotel — a crazy-lucky upgrade because the bridal suite wasn't ready yet. The place had nearly 360-degree views of the city. If a better upgrade exists in life — better than being bumped up to a freakin' Manhattan penthouse on your wedding day — I don't know what it is.
The ceremony and reception took place at a book shop called Housing Works. Am I starstruck by an independent NYC bookstore? Why yes, yes I am. This one has picture books displayed on columned shelves and a shapely staircase that leads to the balcony. Bonus: 100% of venue proceeds benefit the homeless living with HIV/AIDS.
At go time, Rebecca floated in — ethereal elf-fairy queen of a bride that she was — to the tune of "Kiss the Girl" from The Little Mermaid. She and Ian said "I do" in an alcove of books — fitting for a girl who works in publishing and a boy who runs a library.
Cocktail hour ushered in an especially sweet hors d'oeuvre: fancy-pants cotton candy. The spun sugar was flavored with lavender and topped with edible glitter. As if that wasn't magic enough, dinner consisted of fried chicken, mac 'n' cheese, and biscuits.
For their first dance, Ian and Rebecca rummaged through the 1997 archives and pulled out Shania Twain's "From This Moment On." Kudos to the happy couple for getting ahead of the curve, as that song has somehow passed from cliché into nostalgia.
Also wonderfully nostalgic: scads of disposable cameras set about the space for all to use. Way more fun than having everyone on their phones — and also to thank for all of the photos featured here.
Thank you to Rebecca and Ian for all the incredible memories, whether captured on film or logged in the brain bank. If this wedding weekend is any indication of things to come, it's going to be one exuberant, wildly fun, and warm-fuzzy, love-filled lifetime.
Old things, new things, Lake Superior things
Another year, another family trip to about as up north as you can go in Wisconsin. This time, Bayfield was filled with some newness — like a new wine tasting experience, a new at-home cocktail, a new coffee shop, and new opinions on the pancakes at The Fat Radish (said opinions would be mine).
As is the Lawler family way, the weekend started with a stop at Erickson's Orchard. This is where, if they only have nine bags of apple chips, you simply buy all nine bags to stock up. It's survival of the fittest, and in Bayfield, the fittest live off apple chips. This stop takes all of ten minutes.
Next up, it's Hauser's Superior View Farm, former home of the Bayfield Winery. Here you can sample apples and hard cider and climb the two flights of stairs to the Scenic Overlook and Jim's collection of hats, beer cans, toy tractors, and more. I'd describe for you just how many hats, but you'd probably still accuse me of underselling their sheer number upon viewing them yourself.
Now the Bayfield Winery, which used to be housed at Hauser's, is located around a bend on a beautiful stretch of orchard land. Step inside, and it's a different experience from others in the small Lake Superior town. Wine flights are served in a waterfall of glassware, and there are bites and nibbles to share. On a nice day, there's even a small patio overlooking the orchard.
When tummies start rumbling, it's The Fat Radish for dinner. Be sure to make a reservation! Some menu notes from our experience: Don't get the pork skewer. It sounds good, but disappoints. Do get the white fish dinner, the fish tacos, and the Fish Booyah, which is the Radish take on bouillabaisse.
If going there for breakfast, everyone in our party loved the corned beef hash. But note to self: The pancakes aren't for me (too dense, and not even served with butter), and the Korean barbecue bowl was lacking. Next time, I'm going back to the breakfast sammy.
Other Rittenhouse Avenue staples include a stop at the Candy Shoppe to order an apple pie, which will invariably be ready for pick-up after 3pm. Then there's Joanne's Scandinavian, my favorite little shop. I've been known to walk away with expensive socks, a red tea kettle, or a gift for expecting friends. Sweet Sailing is where you go to get fudge, fancy mustards, and two-for-one pounds of saltwater taffy.
Also new this year: Kickapoo Coffee! This really is like having a taste of the city — not surprising, as there is a Kickapoo in Milwaukee, too. It's nice to have a spot where you could hunker down and use the wifi, buy a cool Kickapoo t-shirt or mug, or just come out of the chill for a few over a salted caramel latte.
When at home — er, our rented condo with a view — we like to get pizza to-go from the Manypenny Bistro. Just think twice next time before asking me to carry it home solo, because I will most likely walk the two-blocks back to the condo with the box tilted just enough to ruin half the pizza. But hey, it still tasted good! This year, we washed it down with a scrumptious peppery ginger cider.
As for getting outside and stretching our legs, we made time for the Brownstone Trail, affectionately called The Path in our family. But the weather this time did not inspire other long walks. Next time, we must make room for cemetery bingo and a trip to the Iron Bridge trail. So little time, so much nothing-urgent to do!
When college friends convene in the sugar bush
Prior to this August, my last trip to Phillips was in January of 2017. That time, we toured an honest-to-goodness maple syrup farm (maple trees = sugar bush), took an icy walk on Price Lake, and spent a Sunday morning writing to our senators because: nasty women.
This time at my friends' up north cabin, our aim was the Japanese wabi sabi, which means finding beauty in things imperfect and impermanent. So zen. There were a few new faces, a pontoon, the occasional portrait mode, and arguably the best grilled corn in creation.
No really, the subject of corn was actually argued vehemently. Fritz's Korean barbecue — which included said corn — was delish indeed. She also made her famous margaritas and grilled jalapeño poppers.
For my part, I came prepared with rice krispie treats and curry chicken salad, plus fixings for tortellini pasta salad, lemon bars (which I turned gluten free for sensitive stomachs), and scrumptious lemon poppyseed pancakes with blueberry sauce.
To move our bodies between eating sessions, we hiked to some of the local falls, then later had a swimming and floating party on Price Lake. "Take her to sea, Mr. Murdoch!"
The diva pup, Gia, got a lift from the pier to the pontoon in queenly style. Not pictured: Mason, the black lab who prefers to stay out of the sun and out of the spotlight.
As the sun went down, there may have been a throwback to college with a quick game of beer pong. There also may have been birth chart astrology readings by our hostess with the mostest, as well as some debate over whether or not s'mores are terrible. They're not and anyone who disagrees can leave now.
Before our last sleep in the north woods, we had an impromptu group sing of Paul Simon and attempted to floss (as in the dance). In the morning, we enjoyed the aforementioned pancake breakfast, snapped a group pic, and headed for home, our brains full of new memories and our hearts a little fuller too, let's be honest. Until next time, all you wabi sabi sugar bush friends!
Reflections & things to do
My parents, brother Kevin, and I have been going to Naples, Florida, for as long as I can remember. There are pictures of me as a baby taking a bath in the sink at my grandma's condo. We celebrated my grandparents' 50th anniversary with the extended family there, when I was about nine. All six of my dad's brothers, his one sister, all of their spouses, and all of my cousins — they were all there.
I remember the plastic alligator that sat in the courtyard of my grandma's condo building — you could see it every time you got on the elevator from the lobby. "Is it really real?" we kids would ask, ever skeptical. My dad insisted it was, even though it never budged from its spot, year after year. We eventually got wise.
Every day of Naples vacation, we'd walk down to the boardwalk that stood between Grandma and Grandpa's high-rise and the Gulf. In those days, it felt like an excruciating distance. If we were lucky, Dad would let us hop on a passing tram — but he and my mom preferred the walk. Easy for them, but tough on little legs. Kevin and I now laugh at how un-epic the walk from the Stratford condo to the beach is.
These days, it's my dad's aforementioned "one sister" — my only blood-relative aunt on the Lawler side — who now occupies my grandparents' former condo. It's been a handful of years now since they left this world for that big, beautiful boardwalk in the sky. Shoutout to my aunt for keeping the Naples tradition alive and letting our family of four — plus Kevin's fiancé, Erin — stay for a week this April. Below are some thoughts and notes-to-self for making a Naples family vacation worth your while.
First off, recognize that Naples is largely well-to-do retirees. This means a lack of youth culture, limited nightlife, and drivers who are allegedly either drunk or asleep at the wheel by mid-afternoon. You can never be too careful when cruising through Pelican Bay. Due to its demographic, the bulk of what one does in Naples is beach, eat, nap, eat, pool, and eat.
If it's shopping you crave, know that you're probably not going to buy anything — not the $200 chambray shirtdress and not the $400 yellow mule sandals. Since all you're doing is browsing, browse downtown, rather than at a mall. Scope out 5th Avenue, 12th Street, and 3rd Avenue; it's cute even if you leave empty-handed.
Activity-wise, we made the best of it. On Friday morning, my mom, Erin, and I accompanied my aunt to the condo pool for water aerobics — an unforgettable hour of shakin' what mama gave us with a bunch of darling oldies. If that's not quintessential Naples, I don't know what is. We also borrowed bikes and rode the path along the boardwalk one morning. Next time, a sunset bike trip would be even more picturesque, given the golden hour.
We also spent a day on a boat, meandering the inland waterways until we reached Marco Island and our lunch destination, Snook Inn. This was actually one of our favorite spots we ate at. It's cazh, has a giant patio on the water with ample umbrellas for shade, and serves up scrumptious grouper sandwiches (get it fried!) and iced lemonade. Note to self: On our way to the island, we passed many boats camped out along small beaches. In the future, it would be fun to work some beach time into the boat day.
On our final morning in Naples, some of us rented tandem kayaks to paddle the mangroves. It was a fun time, even if the view offers a lot of the same. We did see some birds, but nothing more impressive than that — not like the family of otters we saw while biking or the dolphins we spied during boat day. The act of renting the kayaks was also a bit of a hassle. But would we do it again? Why not!
Probably one of our favorite mornings was spent at the Botanical Garden, where most of these photos were taken. It was Kevin's birthday, and they happened to have a dino exhibit — his favorite. The gardens are gorgeous and lush — absolutely worth the trip. Just bear in mind that it can get scorching around midday, however, there is a café in the gardens, if you're craving shade and sustenance.
Speaking of eating! I already mentioned Snook Inn, which was our favorite casual spot. Our favorite fancier spot was Tommy Bahama. Yes it's a chain, but Naples boasts the original, and the experience really is a treat. The live music was on point. Our waiter was such a delight and made us feel like every dining decision we made, from the drinks we ordered to our entrée picks, was the right one.
The cocktails are a must. Loved the pina colada and flavored margaritas. The house marg tastes like any house marg, so spring for something special. For dinner, about half of us got the macadamia-crusted snapper and half got the signature chicken. The snapper was delish, but I'd pick the chicken next time. Trust me.
As for nightlife, Kevin, Erin, and I attempted to find some at the Sunset Beach Bar. My guess is that it's a fun place to hang if it's earlier in the evening — say, around actual sunset. But later (like, after 9pm), there were hardly any people there and the drinks were just so-so. If you're going out after your elders hit the hay, I say check out a spot in downtown Naples. Not sure exactly where, but it'd be worth a peek, rather than growing increasingly tired in a low-energy beachside bar.
At the end of the day, nobody goes to Naples for the wild and crazy nights, though. They go for sunny days spent with family — and sometimes that's all you need.
Smells like Gilmore Girls and Christmas
Does twice make a tradition? Last weekend, my mom and I did our second annual trip to Galena, Illinois, for their weekend of Luminaria and Living Windows. As we're already buzzing about next year, I like to think it's officially a new tradition. A very Lorelei-and-Rory-esque tradition. You know: "I smell snow," and coffee, and an inn, and a quaint town, and mother/daughter antics. Am I giving you a toothache? Involuntary twitches? Eye rolls? Sorry, not sorry — my mom is the cat's pajamas, and what can I say? We know how to have a deliciously-cheesy Hallmark movie kind of weekend.
For our combined mother/daughter sanity next year, allow me to log our perfect itinerary for a Galena Luminaria weekend. This may not be exactly how everything went down during year two, but Mom and I like to think we (hopefully) worked out all necessary scheduling kinks. Must make note for year three.
First off, we stayed at the Lamberson Guest House, a four-bedroom inn up on the hill, overlooking Main Street. It's the perfect location in terms of views and access to the harrowing staircase that takes you from the top of the hill to the heart of downtown Galena. While we were there, the house was celebrating its first anniversary of being an inn — meaning it feels very clean and new, while still being historic, as are most of the B&Bs in town.
The ambiance preserves that old world charm, but you can tell the paint is fresh, the linens aren't worn, and there's not a whiff of that musty smell. There are also two pups, Murray and Jack, to cap off the cuteness. The owner Michelle is not only warm and delightful — she's superwoman. Her dear husband passed away unexpectedly just six weeks after they opened the inn last year. Can you imagine? Her spirit and perseverance are truly an inspiration.
But back to the preferred itinerary: Ideally you'd want to arrive at Lamberson Guest House by 4pm on Friday evening to take full advantage of Michelle's wine and cheese happy hour. Call ahead (like, a few weeks ahead) to make a 6pm reservation for dinner at our favorite spot in town, Fritz & Frites. This German and French bistro is quickly becoming the only dinner spot in town for my mom and I. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. The schnitzel is heaven.
After said heavenly dinner, I recommend heading back to the inn, warming up by the electric fire, and popping in a favorite Christmas movie (White Christmas for the win!). In the morning, hopefully it will have magically snowed over night (it did for us!). Breakfast is served promptly at 8:30 and lasts about an hour.
The food was delicious, but exceedingly rich. Pace yourself. After breakfast, take a little walk around the hilltop neighborhood before bopping back to the inn for some noon-time coffee, reading, relaxing, and (maybe) napping. You'll need your energy to stay out all afternoon and evening for the various Luminaria activities. From 2–4pm, $10 gets you a tour of a number of historical B&Bs — something my mom and I didn't make it to this year, but intend to do in year three.
Then from 4–6 on Main Street, it's the Living Windows. This is also when you can bop in and out of shops to do some Christmas shopping (though it's surprising how few truly great shops there are... many lean tacky or country). The Living Windows are the real draw, with everything from magicians to cute kiddos to a slew of kittens beckoning folks to peer inside. Carolers move along the street, serenading as they go, and a four-piece brass band plays traditional carols on a street corner. Charm. For. Days.
Starting at 6pm, it's time for the Luminaria. The streets and hillside steps are lined with paper lanterns, setting the whole town aglow. It really feels like you've stepped into one of those ceramic Christmas villages. In the future, I would probably ask Michelle at the inn, or someone in town, where you might find the best vantage point to take in the Luminaria scene. While my mom and I enjoyed just moseying around, having a more fixed destination might be nice.
Oh, and if at any time during the Living Windows or Luminaria you need some sustenance, bop into Devour for a coffee or hot chocolate — the ambiance is cool and the people are super friendly.
Saturday's end goal is to be at Fritz & Frites, enjoying dessert, when the carolers make their final stop. This year, my mom and I managed this by sharing an apple strudel for over an hour — a very silly thing, but totally worth it. In the future, we decided we're just going to have an entire meal there, dessert and all. Remember: If it ain't broke, don't fix it, and the food at Fritz & Frites is just so good! Plus the owners are super sweet; they gave us a complimentary flute of Turtle Bourbon to top off our coffee.
In a perfect world, make a dinner reservation for 8:00 or 8:30, as the carolers come in after 9pm (it was about 9:15 to be exact). Follow this itinerary, and you're living the Luminaria dream!
Rocky Mountain drives, yodeling cowboys & ghost sightings
After spending a handful of days near Colorado Springs with my Uncle Jack this September, my family said goodbye to Crockett the dog and Whiskey the horse, crammed ourselves and our luggage into the rental car, and drove the almost-three hours to Estes Park. For the last four nights of our Colorado trip, we hung our hats at the Ridgeview Lodge, a VRBO located within walking distance to downtown Estes. Loved staying there — would absolutely stay again!
En route to Estes, we stopped in Nederland to stretch our legs and enjoy some coffee and pastries. The town is very small, but it's a cute spot to escape the car and walk around for a bit.
When we got to Estes, we settled into the VRBO, bummed around Elkhorn Ave (the town's main street), and worked up an appetite for an early dinner. We headed for Mary's Lake Lodge, which my dear friend and Estes aficionado, Rachel, had recommended. In fact, we have Rachel to thank for lots of our Estes memories, as they came from her suggestions. So thanks, Rach!
Mary's Lake Lodge was one such suggestion, due to its gorgeous view from the patio and yummy beer list. Mary's did not disappoint — but make sure to bring a jacket. That mountain wind can blow a little chilly around sunset.
After a solid night's sleep, we laced up our boots and headed out for real Rocky Mountain hike. Remember to pack: Water, trail snacks, sunscreen, and layers. Following Rachel's advice for pretty views and relatively-easy walking, we took the trail that hit Nymph Lake, Dream Lake, and Emerald Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park. The main parking lot fills up early, but there is overflow parking with shuttles running regularly to the trailhead.
Hands down, this hike was my favorite thing we did in Estes. I can't get over the postcard-perfect views of far-off peaks, shimmering aspens, rushing streams, towering evergreens, and glassy mountain lakes — three of them! It was unreal. I understand now why some people would rather hike alone. The freedom it affords you to just pause and take it all in, to move as fast or as slow from minute to minute, must be nice. I wish I'd had many more minutes on the Emerald Lake trail — but hiking with family isn't so bad either.
Post-hike, we needed a nap. And after a nap, we needed tacos and avocado margaritas from Ed's Cantina & Grill. Tip of the hat to Rachel for telling us about avocado margaritas. They may sound off-putting, but really the avocado just brings a creaminess to a blended marg that's a little bit of heaven. Our favorite tacos: pork with grilled pineapple salsa — yum!
On our second full day in Estes, after sleeping off the margs, it was time to drive Trail Ridge Road, the highest road in the U.S. While we could have stopped at the Alpine Visitor Center and turned around, the fam decided to keep on keepin' all the way to Grand Lake — about a two-hour drive from Estes.
We had our sights set on lunch and bopping around another little mountain town. Unfortunately, lunch was just okay and the whole main street was under noisy construction. C'est la vie! Regardless, Grand Lake itself was gorgeous, and the town was super cute, despite the main drag being blown to smithereens.
After driving back to Estes and succumbing to more naps, it was time for our date with ghostly destiny. My mom booked us a night tour at the Stanley Hotel, which inspired Stephen King's The Shining. Was it a super-scary tour? Not really. So if that's your angle, you may be a bit disappointed.
But I'm not someone who gets a pleasant thrill from being scared, so it worked for me that our tour guide was a real hoot. He told some great ghost stories, some firsthand experiences, and let us in on the history of the hotel — all fascinating. I say it's worth the price of admission, even if you don't leave feeling spooked.
Our last day in Estes started with a parade. It was the annual Scottish Irish Highland Festival, and a huge parade of Scottish clans and musicians came bagpiping down Elkhorn Ave for a solid hour or more. The turnout was seriously impressive — who knew such Highland pride existed in the Rockies?
We spent the rest of the morning and afternoon lunching and browsing at various shops — candy shops, shops with tourist swag, and my absolute favorite: a coffee and card shop called Inkwell & Brew. I think I could live there very happily. We also stopped at the Rachel-recommended Kind Coffee, an adorable spot with delicious drinks and some of the best pumpkin bread I've ever had.
To cap off our final night in Colorado, things got campy. We'd booked a table at the Lazy B Chuckwagon & Show. What's that? It's a cowboy dinner theater where you eat brisket, pulled pork, baked beans, buttermilk biscuits, baked potatoes, and peaches from a can. The night is emceed by cowboys telling dad jokes, and in the middle of the show you can dress up in cowboy garb and snap some pics.
Told you it was camp! But it was also plenty entertaining. Yes, the jokes were silly and some were at the expense of young whippersnappers (anyone under 35), but the music was legitimately good. The troupe played a slew of cowboy standbys, yodeling, foot-tapping, and fiddling away — with lovely voices to boot. It was pretty remarkable to find such real talent in a cowboy dinner theater — who knew!?
Bottom line, if you can check your pretensions at the door, then the Lazy B is a terrific way to bid a fond farewell to Estes Park. Add it to the memory bank! Happy trails, y'all.
