Broadways "An American in Paris" comes to Milwaukee

'S wonderful, 's marvelous — 's that simple!

Set in the City of Light in post-World War Two with plucky soldiers in a new town, a love triangle (er, square?), and an easy-breezy Gershwin score, An American in Paris has all the hallmarks of a golden age musical. The 2015 Tony winner was even inspired by the 1951 movie starring Gene Kelly and Leslie Caron. 




It's the story of American GI Jerry Mulligan, who decides to say in Paris after the war in hopes of becoming a professional painter. Jerry makes two new friends, an American would-be composer named Adam and a French would-be crooner named Henri, and falls for the sweetly mysterious Lise, a French shopgirl and aspiring prima ballerina. Unbeknownst to Jerry, Lise just happens to be Henri's betrothed. Who, I wonder, will get the girl? 

The marvelous thing about An American in Paris is that, though classic in its song and story, the minds behind this new version have created a wholly refreshing interpretation that transforms the way one thinks about and experiences decades-old musicals. That freshness you're feeling? Dance. From curtain rise to fall, An American in Paris hinges on dance. Even the set changes are every bit as beautifully and seamlessly choreographed as the company's every move. 




Those moves, designed by Choreographer and Director Christopher Wheeldon, lend an exquisitely intimate beauty and grace to the show. An American in Paris is a work of art from start to finish, as every danced moment, from the nuance of falling in love to show-stopping kick lines, is crafted to artistic perfection. At times it's wonderfully surreal and, at other times, downright sexy.

Of course any choreography is only as good as the talent executing it, and the talent in this touring cast is off the charts. The lead actors nail every note, dance step, and line of dialogue. Finding a troupe of serious triple threats on a national tour is no guarantee, so a visit to Milwaukee from this caliber of artistry is a sheer delight.




First up, there's McGee Maddox as Jerry. He trained with the Houston Ballet and joined the National Ballet of Canada in 2009. Through highly-athletic choreography, Maddox's movements appear effortless and lighter than air. I kept wondering when he would mess up or miss his mark — but, to my eyes, he never did. Echoes of Gene Kelly. 

Dancing opposite Maddox is leading lady Allison Walsh. She was part of An American in Paris from its first Broadway workshop, dancing in the Broadway ensemble for the show and even playing Lise as an alternate. When our trio of lovestruck fellows swoon over Lise in "'S Wonderful, 'S Marvelous," there's no question as to why. From the way her movements mesmerize to the loveliness in her singing voice, Walsh earns every bit of starry-eyed praise heaped upon her. 




The triple-threat talent doesn't stop there. Matthew Scott as American composer Adam, Ben Michael as French singer Henri, and Kirsten Scott as American society sweetheart Milo — they each do their share to round out the lead roles with star power. Matthew Scott brings the clever laughs, then turns around and belts a beautiful solo. Michael's Henri is sweetly lovable and more than a little unsure, then turns around and leads a chorus of marabou-feathered, dream-sequence showgirls like a downright dandy.

Even Kirsten Scott's role of "the other woman," at risk of being a throwaway part, is made special with Kirsten behind it. She's funny, quick as a whip, and appears utterly at home on stage. What a treat to not only see this fantastic quintet in action, but to also experience the talents of the entire ensemble in all their exuberance.




That feeling of joy and jubilation is what An American in Paris is all about. Though still reeling from the war (which lends the perfect dash of drama to this otherwise soaring musical), our cast of characters grows to realize that though life is dark, it's up to us to choose love and light. It's also up to those with a knack for the arts to go out and create works that bring some brightness into the world. An American in Paris does just that.

A long weekend in Nashville, TN

Barbecue & bikes & brides — oh my! 

“Nashvegas,” they said. Also “hot chicken” and “hope you like country.” While I’m not that into country music or places readily compared to Vegas, Nashville has been high on my list of stateside cities to see someday. 

I’m happy to report that the experience, through fraught with more bachelorettes than I could count (well, almost), didn’t disappoint. Here’s how we spent a long weekend in Nashville — what we loved, liked, and wished we’d done differently. 




Things to do & spots to explore
Our first couple nights in Nashville were spent in the heart of downtown, a short walk from Broadway. Broadway is the main drag, full of tourists, bars (some overpriced, some offering kick-ass deals), food, live music, stores hawking three-for-one pairs of cowboy boots, and a barrage of bachelorettes. 

At one point we even made a drinking game of it: From our perch at Rippy’s, we counted 25 parties in an hour and a half, indentifying each either by their matching shirts/boots, the bride’s dollar store veil/tiara, and/or the steady stream of “Woo!” emanating from neighboring bars and passing pedal taverns. 





But back to Broadway itself. It’s fun to check out at least once, ideally at night to get the full neoned effect. Beyond that and a stop at the tasty Jack’s Bar-B-Que (yum!), I’d recommend moving off Broadway sooner rather than later. 

Where to? Art lovers can bop into the Frist, a small art museum that welcomes traveling exhibits. We caught the Nick Cave exhibit (below) and had a memorable chat with Mancil, the older & wiser keeper of the Information Desk. He greeted us in his lavender vest, rainbow checked shirt, and pink bow tie patterned with tiny beach umbrellas. This gent was an absolute delight, reminding museum-goers repeatedly that the on-site café fries their own potato chips. He also gave us directions to some of his favorite Nashville hidden gems on a hand-drawn map. 





Anywho, the Frist also has an amazing children’s center, the Martin ArtQuest Gallery. Here you can really let your inner child come out to play, creating stop-motion videos where dinosaurs eat babies, busting out the scissors and glue to flex those crafting muscles, and pushing buttons to make sound wave sand art. 





Need to get a little active after all that art? There are bikes for rent and kayaks for a three-mile jaunt down the Cumberland River. Check any and all kayaking hesitations at the door — if I can do it solo, so can you! I'd definitely recommend it for the spectacular views of the city and the fun of relatively-easy paddling. Plus, in the heat of the day, it was actually cooler on the water.





By bike, we ventured from downtown Nashville and Printer’s Alley to the Gulch. The Gulch is a really cute area, with a totally different vibe from the Vegas-ness of Broadway. The last few days of our trip, we stayed in East Nashville — again, a different vibe from downtown with plenty to eat, drink, and do. 

Germantown is also worth a peek. This corner of the city is close to the home of the Nashville Sounds minor league baseball team — so fun! Instead of racing sausages, they have racing country music stars. Yes, I rooted for Dolly. Sadly, she didn’t win.





We also zipped around Nashville on Bird electric scooters. After my life flashed before my eyes as I full-throttled, then full-stopped the damn thing during my first ride, the scooter experience became increasingly more fun and less tensing-every-muscle-in-my-body. But it turns out these scooters are a safety hazard and are in the process of being banned by the city. If they’ve worked out the kinks and the Birds are back in town, give ‘em a whirl! If not, RIP Bird scooters. I’m glad I didn’t die while riding you.

Eating & drinking 
Now for everyone’s favorite topic: Food! The number of delicious spots to dine in Nashville are too numerous, but I can tell you the spots we hit in our one long weekend. On our first night, we asked our Uber driver where might be good to eat near Broadway, and she said Panera. Needless to say we didn’t trust her judgment. 





So we googled nearby eats and landed on Martin’s Bar-B-Que, walkable from Broadway. The atmosphere at Martin’s is killer: An open-air greenhouse vibe on the roof, sort of rustic-retro-industrial with pops of greenery and neon lights. But despite the ambiance and live music, our food was really just okay. Pro tip: Go to Martin’s for a drink, and make sure you sit on the patio.

Our second night, we ate at Silo in Germantown. It’s a slightly more upscale spot with scrumptious small plates, perfect for sharing. Our favorites were the pan-friend ricotta dumplings with browned butter and mini garlic and herb drop biscuits with pimento cheese spread. 

On Saturday morning, our group had made a reservation at the Listening Room Café — a place that serves brunch over live music. Little did we know that said live music would be singer-songwriters, and that talking during brunch is highly frowned upon. The experience was cool, but maybe not conducive to a large group of friends itching to catch up. The fried chicken and biscuits, however, were lick-the-plate tasty, full stop. That's one way to keep your audience quiet: feed them Southern deliciousness. 

When all you want is a patio and a burger, Pharmacy Burger Parlor & Beer Garden is a must. The place looks small from the outside, but there’s a sprawling tiered backyard with picnic table-style seating. You may have to wait quite a while for a table, but it was worth it for us in the end. The burgers are awesome, and you can get a milkshake, if your little heart desires. Yummo. 





Speaking of waiting for food, two words: Hattie B’s. We’d heard Prince’s chicken is the best, according to several Lyft drivers and locals, but the location wasn’t convenient. So we ventured to everyone’s second favorite, Hattie B’s. There are a few locations, and unfortunately we picked the most-packed one. We waited in line outside in the drizzle for over an hour. Worth it? You bet. I went for medium spice and it was perfect, though next time, I’d probably go for a straight-up hot chicken sandwich. Mmm. 





Feeling all barbecued and chickened out, our last dinner took us to Butcher & Bee for “New American” shared plates. We mostly opted for any plate with a surplus of veggies. Our favorites? The whipped feta with honey, avocado crispy rice with greens and chiles, and Israeli salad with mango, pineapple, cucumber, and herbs. So fresh and so divine after a weekend filled with fried food. No food regrets! 

For next time
If I ever make it back to Nashville, here’s what’s on my hit list: First, Centennial Park and the Parthenon. Yes, there’s a replica of Greece’s parthenon in Nashville! Second, I’d scope out Opryland Hotel — an insane hotel with an entire indoor river, complete with boat cruises. I’d also like to spend some more time bopping around to various neighborhoods. If renting a car, I’d do a stop at Cheekwood gardens & estate and perhaps a day trip to Mammoth Cave. Oh that there were more hours in a day! Luckily, with the hours we had to work with, Nashville didn’t disappoint. 

Nomad Nacional

The World Pub invites Milwaukee to “Taste la fun!” 

I don’t consider myself a Nomad girl. Soccer’s not my thing, and the famous Brady Street Prix Fix doesn’t set my world on fire. But when the World Pub announced its pop-up bar, taking over the former La Fuente space on the south side, my ears perked up. 




Nomad Nacional exists thanks to the World Cup, which starts on June 14th. But it's shaping up to be so much more than a bunch of bros chugging PBR and shouting about futbol. For starters, there’s food. I made the delicious mistake of trying the Pork Nalu Bowl upon my first visit, and now I can't go back. Seared pineapple, charred corn, pickled cilantro, avocado, jalapeños, and cilantro-lime rice — outrageously cravable. FYI: Happy Hour is Monday–Friday with $5 margs, Good City’s Nomad Summer Ale, and all-you-can-eat taquitos. 




The space itself is sprawling. There’s a massive interior with high ceilings, an upstairs, and two spacious patios. While there hasn’t been an extensive remodel of the old La Fuente (the interior mural remains, as do the vaguely grimy tables), the folks at Nomad have freshened the place with bright coats of paint and festive décor, inside and out. Want massive murals by local artists? They’ve got that too — about 10 murals total to ogle. It’s an insanely fun vibe, and one that’s begging to be Milwaukee’s new summer go-to. 




Plus, during the month-long World Cup celebration, there’s daily live music and DJs, local vendors, and special events on tap at Nacional. On Friday June 15th, Milwaukee favorite De la Buena will be in the house. For Father’s Day, there’s a pig roast, rock climbing wall, and reps form the Milwaukee Wave to kick around with the kiddos. Yes, everything at Nacional is family-friendly! They’re even countering Father’s Day with a Soccer Mom Sunday on June 24th, with free manicures for moms and specials on mimosas and white wine.




Last but not least, the alley behind Nomad Nacional will host a Vendor Village on select dates throughout the World Cup. Newaukee is hosting a three-day Night Market the weekend of June 28th, too. Could there be any more reason to pop by this pop-up? There’s something for everyone! Oh, and soccer. There will also be soccer. Lots of soccer (in the Fanzone, as they're calling it). With all there is at Nacional to get excited about, they might even eke a cheer or two out of me.

For music lineup, vendor info, and match schedules, follow Nomad Nacional on Facebook or visit nomadfanzone.com. 

The Milwaukee Ballet presents "Swan Lake"

Michael Pink's updated classic, as sublime as ever

Tchaikovsky's glorious score, the innocent white swan, the evil black swan, the prince, the curse, the ill-fated lovers. Even casual fans of ballet know Swan Lake, as it's arguably the most prevailing piece next to, perhaps, The Nutcracker. Typically performed in four acts, Milwaukee Ballet Artistic Director, Michael Pink, has trimmed the classic into two acts, maintaining Swan Lake's integrity and grandeur while making it a more comfortable experience for modern audiences.

In Pink's version, we see the villainous Count von Rothbart (Timothy O'Donnell*) cast his swan spell on Odette (Luz San Miguel*) and her friends as they play along the lakeshore. His aim: To destroy Prince Siegfried's (Davit Hovhannisyan*) true love, thereby destroying the prince himself and usurping the throne. Von Rothbart also conjures a dark foil for Odette — Odile (Marize Fumero*), the black swan, to further lure Siegfried to his doom. 

Setting the scenes are Lighting Designer David Grill and Set & Costume Designer José Varona. Lighting moves from golden sunshine to rosy sunset, and from the purple hues of twilight to moonlight dancing on enchanted waters. The shifts are subtle, yet so very critical to a story where women are cursed to be birds by day and human by night. Sets fit for a fairytale round out the scenery, transporting the audience to a land of ancient forests and opulent royal courts. 

Varona's costumes mirror the richness and storybook charm of the of Swan Lake's lighting and sets. Eye-popping fabrics are jewel-toned and saturated, lending a sense of the regal and fantastical. Then there are the swan maidens, who are, traditionally, sheathed in white tutus with their queen, Odette, in a similar tutu that's a few notches up on the luxury scale, complete with feathered headdress. 

You'll find none of that tradition in this Milwaukee Ballet version, as its creators have fully embraced modernity in outfitting their swans. The troupe of swans dance in simple white dress, more suited to a contemporary dance than a classical ballet. Given that the nemesis Odile dons a very traditional black tutu, the sleekness of our heroine and her friends is, at first, a little surprising — especially for anyone eagerly anticipating those classic costumes. 

But as soon as the women of the Milwaukee Ballet start moving, all costuming concerns vanish. In skirts that skim their dancers bodies, hair pulled half-back, the female company of sixteen move with such utter grace and precision, it's indeed a wise choice to let their skill shine through more simple attire. Though the principal dancers often stop the show with rounds of applause, the beauty of Swan Lake is how it allows the female company an opportunity to amaze. 

These ladies are mesmerizing, and seeing all sixteen on stage — seventeen including Odette — moving in unison is a marvel of choreography and artistry. Many of the favorite Swan Lake moments can be found: the swan maidens huddled together, the pitter-patter of bourrées, backs arched as a flock of anxious birds. What's missing? The famous Dance of the Little Swans. My one regret.

But whatever traditions are eschewed, they are answered with innovations that strengthen the narrative. In the Pas de Deux, wherein Siegfried meets the swan maiden Odette and tries to win her trust, the dance can sometimes seem all too comfortable right from the start. Traditionally, the white swan and the prince begin this dance closely intertwined and moving together as a pair. In Pink's version, Odette's fear is palpable and her eventual trust in Siegfried feels earned.

It's this passionate and tender relationship that makes Swan Lake a fairytale romance for the ages. Perhaps that's why it never goes out of style, and why the principal roles of Odette, Odile, and Siegfried are an honor for any classical ballet dancer. The Milwaukee Ballet principals do their parts ample justice, with Thursday night's Odette and Odile, Luz San Miguel and Marize Fumero, tipping the scales to give us something transcendent. 

The final moments of the ballet pull your heart into your throat, as the sixteen swan maidens turn their backs to the audience and gaze upon their beloved fallen queen. The movements are simple, the effect breathtaking. That about sums up Michael Pink's Swan Lake on the whole — streamlined and sublime. 

*Indicates dancers for Thursday's performance

Photos of Luz San Miguel, Marize Fumero, and Davit Hovhannisyan by Mark Frohna

The Skylight presents "Urinetown"

Potty humor at its musical best 

The house lights still blazed brightly as townsfolk trickled onto the stage, clutching their bladders in agony. "When did that guy get here?" my neighbor asked, nodding in the direction of a man writhing on the stage floor. His unannounced arrival was the first indication that this musical would be filled with all things unexpected. 



The second clue came when Officer Lockstock, also the narrator, welcomed us to Urinetown: The Musical, flashing his best jazz hands. Yes, a musical that knows it's a musical and repeatedly reminds you it's a musical — that's also unexpected. Lockstock, played by the hilarious Rick Pendzich, goes on to relay the history of Urinetown — the fictitious place, not the 2001 Tony winner.

Per the audience guide, the story is set in a "Gotham-like" city where a 20-year drought has led to the government control of all toilets. An evil corporation, Urine Good Company, regulates public bathrooms and charges people for the privilege to pee. This satire touches on the class system, corporate greed, capitalism, and politics — and it's done with laugh-out-loud gags aplenty.




Luckily, there's so much more than potty humor here. There's a classic boy-meets-girl romance and a root-for-the-underdog verve. Most notably, Urinetown was written by Mark Hollmann and Greg Kotis to be an ode to musical theater itself. Says Skylight Artistic Director Ray Jivoff: "Once you get past the title, a source for comedy in the script, this is a really entertaining Broadway musical that reinvigorated the very notion of what a musical could be." More on that to come. Let's pivot back to the comedy. 

This Skylight cast has comedic timing down pat, playing up the humor in all the usual character tropes. There's our hero — the young & earnest upstart, the wide-eyed dream girl, the cartoonishly evil big wigs, cops with their film noir speech patterns, and Little Sally who innocently pesters our narrator throughout the show. 




Though delivered with childlike naiveté, Little Sally (Kaylee Annable) always asks the big questions. Like, why focus solely on toilets and not other issues affected by a 20-year drought, such as bathing or hydraulics. As Officer Lockstock explains, it's easier for the audience to digest just one issue — and it's easier to write.

As for the other tropes, our hero is Bobby Strong, played by Lucas Pastrana, a recent grad of the Peck School of the Arts. Pastrana's voice is as mighty as his character's surname; his demeanor on point as the archetypal leading man. Bobby Strong's love interest, Hope, is played by Milwaukee native Rachael Zientek, who walks the fine line between sickly-sweet and knowingly-saccharine, and does so with a lovely voice to boot. These two make a delightful and funny pair.

Aside from perhaps Pendzich's Officer Lockstock and Annable's Little Sally, few drew bigger laughs than the maniacal men controlling the toilets: Steven M. Koehler as head honcho Caldwell B. Cladwell, Doug Jarecki as Senator Fipp, and James Carrington as the shrieking Mr. McQueen. There's also Penelope Pennywise (Amber Smith), a pawn in the bad guys' plot to increase the fee to pee. Pennywise controls Public Amenity #9 — the toilet used by Bobby Strong and his band of revolutionaries. Smith's Pennywise doesn't skip a beat, her voice commanding through her character's palpable sleaze.  

The Skylight has also assembled a dynamite ensemble cast, with each voice a force and each character an asset to Urinetown's side-splitting humor. The ensemble does a lot of the heavy lifting in bringing the aforementioned musical odes to life — from mimicking a chorus of plunger-toting Ziegfeld girls to marching à la Les Miserables to attempting the famous Fiddler bottle dance with (again) plungers in place of bottles. 

Beyond the laughs, one of the biggest show-stoppers is Act Two's "Run, Freedom, Run!" — a gospel-inspired tune with an acapella break that showcases just how stunningly talented this entire cast is.




In the end, you may leave Urinetown wondering, as Little Sally does, what kind of a musical is this? Officer Lockstock would have me remind me you that it isn't supposed to be a happy one. It's one full of mixed signals: comedic tropes, untimely death, catchy music, rich vs. poor, hope for tomorrow, and an ultimately uncertain future. It makes you think not only about the baddies who want to regulate our metaphorical toilets, but also the do-gooders who act on righteous principle alone without regard to reality. 

As show creator Mark Hollmann says, "No one has the answer; Urinetown merely raises the questions." The one thing you won't be questioning as you leave the Skylight is whether or not this was two hours of your time well spent. For that, the answer would be a hearty yes. Just make sure to exercise your right to pee before all the laughing kicks in.

Urinetown is playing at the Skylight Music Theatre, now through June 10th. Info and tickets at skylightmusictheatre.org. 

*Photos by Mark Frohna

Derby Day at Maxie's

Hours of anticipation for 2 minutes of sports

People get really into Derby Day. They're so into it, I have a sneaking suspicion it's becoming just another excuse for the masses to get drunk and wear lavish headwear they normally wouldn't dare to don. Who am I kidding? That's more so a fact than a suspicion. But that doesn't mean my first-ever Derby party (don't knock it 'til you try it, amiright?) wasn't super fun — it was actually a blast.

This was Maxie's 11th year hosting their Derby party, which apparently grows a little bit bigger each year. Admission is $15, benefitting the Hunger Task Force. There's a big white tent in the lot beside the restaurant and a big brass band playing swing-y classics. Be sure to pop inside the restaurant for a quick shot of A.C. on a hot day. There you can also enter your raffle tickets ($1 each) for the prize(s) of your choosing. I went for a Good Kind gift card and cheese board paraphernalia, but left empty handed. 

In addition to raffles, picking which horse will win, place, or show is certainly a must. It makes the two-minute race itself worthwhile. As for outfits, there are prizes for the best hats and costumes. Colonel Sanders was an obvious pick for Best Costume this year, and a pair of adorable jockeys easily snagged Best-Dressed Couple.

Food & drink-wise, note: The cocktails are super sweet. I switched to beer after puckering my way through one mint julep. However, though overly doused in simple syrup, I will say it was also stacked with bourbon. Do with the info what you will — I'll be the one drinking beer next year, and making sure to hydrate. The food was standard Maxie's fare: mac 'n' cheese, chicken tenders, house-made chips, ribs, and more. Plenty tasty! 

But my favorite thing about Derby Day at Maxie's was the people watching. Sometimes folks just like an excuse to put on their Sunday best and be a little bit fabulous. Though I can't confirm firsthand, I've heard that other parties, like the one at the Iron Horse Hotel, can turn into a mess of day-drinkers who are one spiked sweet tea away from vomiting all over your dress shoes.

Maxie's Derby Day, on the other hand, was utterly welcoming to people of all ages. Watching grandmas get down to blaring trumpets while little ones practice their breakdancing — it's such fun! Shall we do it again? You can bet on it. See you next May!

Naples, Florida with the fam

Reflections & things to do

My parents, brother Kevin, and I have been going to Naples, Florida, for as long as I can remember. There are pictures of me as a baby taking a bath in the sink at my grandma's condo. We celebrated my grandparents' 50th anniversary with the extended family there, when I was about nine. All six of my dad's brothers, his one sister, all of their spouses, and all of my cousins — they were all there. 




I remember the plastic alligator that sat in the courtyard of my grandma's condo building — you could see it every time you got on the elevator from the lobby. "Is it really real?" we kids would ask, ever skeptical. My dad insisted it was, even though it never budged from its spot, year after year. We eventually got wise. 

Every day of Naples vacation, we'd walk down to the boardwalk that stood between Grandma and Grandpa's high-rise and the Gulf. In those days, it felt like an excruciating distance. If we were lucky, Dad would let us hop on a passing tram — but he and my mom preferred the walk. Easy for them, but tough on little legs. Kevin and I now laugh at how un-epic the walk from the Stratford condo to the beach is. 




These days, it's my dad's aforementioned "one sister" — my only blood-relative aunt on the Lawler side — who now occupies my grandparents' former condo. It's been a handful of years now since they left this world for that big, beautiful boardwalk in the sky. Shoutout to my aunt for keeping the Naples tradition alive and letting our family of four — plus Kevin's fiancé, Erin — stay for a week this April. Below are some thoughts and notes-to-self for making a Naples family vacation worth your while. 

First off, recognize that Naples is largely well-to-do retirees. This means a lack of youth culture, limited nightlife, and drivers who are allegedly either drunk or asleep at the wheel by mid-afternoon. You can never be too careful when cruising through Pelican Bay. Due to its demographic, the bulk of what one does in Naples is beach, eat, nap, eat, pool, and eat.




If it's shopping you crave, know that you're probably not going to buy anything — not the $200 chambray shirtdress and not the $400 yellow mule sandals. Since all you're doing is browsing, browse downtown, rather than at a mall. Scope out 5th Avenue, 12th Street, and 3rd Avenue; it's cute even if you leave empty-handed. 

Activity-wise, we made the best of it. On Friday morning, my mom, Erin, and I accompanied my aunt to the condo pool for water aerobics — an unforgettable hour of shakin' what mama gave us with a bunch of darling oldies. If that's not quintessential Naples, I don't know what is. We also borrowed bikes and rode the path along the boardwalk one morning. Next time, a sunset bike trip would be even more picturesque, given the golden hour. 




We also spent a day on a boat, meandering the inland waterways until we reached Marco Island and our lunch destination, Snook Inn. This was actually one of our favorite spots we ate at. It's cazh, has a giant patio on the water with ample umbrellas for shade, and serves up scrumptious grouper sandwiches (get it fried!) and iced lemonade. Note to self: On our way to the island, we passed many boats camped out along small beaches. In the future, it would be fun to work some beach time into the boat day.

On our final morning in Naples, some of us rented tandem kayaks to paddle the mangroves. It was a fun time, even if the view offers a lot of the same. We did see some birds, but nothing more impressive than that — not like the family of otters we saw while biking or the dolphins we spied during boat day. The act of renting the kayaks was also a bit of a hassle. But would we do it again? Why not!




Probably one of our favorite mornings was spent at the Botanical Garden, where most of these photos were taken. It was Kevin's birthday, and they happened to have a dino exhibit — his favorite. The gardens are gorgeous and lush — absolutely worth the trip. Just bear in mind that it can get scorching around midday, however, there is a café in the gardens, if you're craving shade and sustenance. 

Speaking of eating! I already mentioned Snook Inn, which was our favorite casual spot. Our favorite fancier spot was Tommy Bahama. Yes it's a chain, but Naples boasts the original, and the experience really is a treat. The live music was on point. Our waiter was such a delight and made us feel like every dining decision we made, from the drinks we ordered to our entrée picks, was the right one. 




The cocktails are a must. Loved the pina colada and flavored margaritas. The house marg tastes like any house marg, so spring for something special. For dinner, about half of us got the macadamia-crusted snapper and half got the signature chicken. The snapper was delish, but I'd pick the chicken next time. Trust me.

As for nightlife, Kevin, Erin, and I attempted to find some at the Sunset Beach Bar. My guess is that it's a fun place to hang if it's earlier in the evening — say, around actual sunset. But later (like, after 9pm), there were hardly any people there and the drinks were just so-so. If you're going out after your elders hit the hay, I say check out a spot in downtown Naples. Not sure exactly where, but it'd be worth a peek, rather than growing increasingly tired in a low-energy beachside bar. 




At the end of the day, nobody goes to Naples for the wild and crazy nights, though. They go for sunny days spent with family — and sometimes that's all you need.